Richard F.
West Greenland from Nuuk to Disko Bay and the Coast
Where to begin? First, my second experience on the Sea Spirit confirmed what I learned from the first voyage to E. Greenland and Iceland--a small ship with just 100 or so passengers is much more intimate, giving us time to make friends at meals, in the evenings, and during the expeditions themselves. Beset by gale-force and sometimes Cat 1 Hurricane-force winds for 3 days in Nuuk, Poseidon's crew made a fantastic time out of it. We ventured out twice into town, and took a tour of the town by bus. So, we could learn from the local guide on the bus about life in Nuuk as Greenland modernizes and urbanizes. On the ship, on the spur of the moment, Inuit cultural events were presented, one an amazingly funny mask dance, and the other a drum dance. We heard an Inuit song as well. Yes, we wanted to get going, but knew in advance that the weather and the ice would determine our itinerary. When the weather broke, we safely sped northward and were able to visit Disko Island, with one of our crew trainees getting to see her family there, see the midnight sun along the way, Maniitsok gave us an opportunity to visit a museum of traditional technology, and for me to film a modern church group with guitars and a box drum that sang the same Lutheran hymns they have in Christian Indonesia but in the Inuit language. What a surprise to hear familiar music! And it was a chance to talk a bit with locals, out in the weather for the first time in months. Before that, we had ventured into Sisimiut to pick up passengers at 2 a.m. ferried by Poseidon on chartered aircraft and Zodiac craft so they could join us for the sojourn. That was generous, I feel. After Disko Island, we made it to Illulisat where the incredible icebergs flow out from the icecap. First, we went for a walk over the hill to the bay. We were later put aboard a boat to go out into the fjord amid the icebergs and witnessed an Inuit hunter hunt down a seal, later informing our captain that he successfully got it on board his boat. It sparked an animated discussion among vegans and us meat eaters who shared different views. That was an educational experience in itself! Several of us filmed it. Finally, we went into a settlement of only 200 people, where we were allowed to visit homes of people who had visitors for special occasions in small numbers. We tasted some local snacks and got an idea of what it is like to live in a Greenland home. We couldn't converse due to the language barrier, but that was OK. It was in that settlement that the Sea Spirit, and perhaps Poseidon, set a new record, with our hotch-potch "team" defeating the local team 7-6 with penalty kicks. It was the first time ever. Poseidon then arranged our departure with additional flights, as we could not get through the ice to Kangerlussuat airport. They got us to our destinations with just one bag misplaced, but it eventually reached my friend OK. I plan to go to Svalbard next year. I hope much of the same crew is there. I can't thank them all for being so helpful and informative. This was a very educational insight into the modernization of Inuit life in Greenland and the challenge of making up the big deficit that Denmark now covers so that Greenland can function.
Response from Poseidon ExpeditionsJul 2, 2018
Thank you, Richard, for your wonderful review, and the multitude of details about your trip aboard the Sea Spirit. You've hit the nail on the head as to what "expedition cruising" in the polar regions is all about – always being ready for a change of plans due to weather or ice. In this case, high winds which prevented some of the passengers from their arrival via aircraft to Nuuk, and the ship itself from leaving port for a couple of days. Fortunately, the "missing passengers" turned up several days later, as we arranged a charter flight for them to rendezvous with the Sea Spirit further north. So, it all worked out in the end. We owe thanks to Expedition Leader Anja Erdmann, a real pro, and to our Operations Team back in headquarters, who helped arrange the various activities at the last minute. We're so glad you had a chance to do and see things that otherwise wouldn't have happened! Every expedition trip is different and unique, and that's why we enjoy being in this specialized segment of the cruise industry. Thanks again, and we look forward to welcoming you back aboard in Svalbard or another polar destination in the future!




