Loves A.
The good and the very disappointing
We were grateful to have had the opportunity to explore the vast, wild, remote, and stunning country of Eastern Greenland. The ship, rooms, decks, places to sit, food, staff, expedition team, and presentations were all excellent. The Zodiac cruising and perimeter hiking were highlights of the trip. The weather was generally cold, but we had some beautiful, sunny days. The helicopter excursion was particularly memorable. I was fortunate to be selected for a front seat, and the views were spectacular. However, the experience also involved a two-hour wait in the waiting room before our flight. One group waited five hours before being told there would be no more flights that day. If you are considering the helicopter excursion, you should be prepared to decide whether a potentially long wait is worth a 15-minute flight. Our three-star rating reflects, in part, our disappointments based on the circumstances and weather we experienced. What we realized during this trip is that a ship carrying 188 passengers is simply too large for us. Although Quark did a good job organizing the activities, we often found the wait times to get on the zodiac and go to shore were longer than we would have liked. The restaurant could also be noisy and crowded at times. That said, the food and restaurant staff were excellent. Quark's marketing emphasizes the opportunity to see polar bears, muskoxen, walruses, Arctic foxes, and whales. We saw one thin polar bear through a scope and a couple of muskoxen that were essentially dots in the distance. Of course, wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, but this is something prospective passengers should keep in mind when considering their expectations. Quark also emphasizes seeing the Northern Lights in the title of this expedition. We saw them on a couple of occasions, but they were small and faint. Another highlight advertised for this itinerary is visiting the remote East Greenland community of Ittoqqortoormiit. Because of weather, we were unable to visit. Toward the end of the trip, the itinerary was shortened by two days because of weather, and we cruised directly to Reykjavík, missing the Westfjords of Iceland. Quark offered a City Card or a Golden Circle tour as alternatives. Because we had already spent 14 days touring Iceland before the expedition, neither option was useful to us. When we asked whether there was another alternative, Quark declined to provide one. Quark uses the phrase "embracing the unexpected is part of the excitement." We certainly understood that weather and conditions could change the itinerary, and we do not fault Quark for circumstances beyond its control. However, our experience made us realize just how different the actual trip can be from the proposed itinerary. For anyone considering this expedition, I would recommend going in with the understanding that weather, sea conditions, ice, and wildlife can significantly change what you ultimately experience. The itinerary you book is not necessarily the itinerary you will receive. Finally, we were put up in the Marina Hotel that was nearly impossible to find even using GPS. The inside was rough around the edges with dirty carpet and very small rooms. Quark, your passengers are paying a lot for this trip so please do better. We also learned something important about ourselves: we prefer smaller expedition ships. There are several other expedition companies offering comparable polar experiences, and as a repeat customer it's time for us to choose another boat for our trip to South Georgia and Antarctica.


